When I was younger, my favorite color in the crayon box was Periwinkle. It’s the subtle purple, mixed with blue that just gets me.
Know that I’m a grown up (ok well sort of) my crayon box has turned in to a makeup box!
As luck would have it, one of my favorite brands – Bare Escentuals, was hosting an artistry event, in conjunction with a Master Class taught by my new friend, Bravon Pascua.
A Bare Escentuals Master Class was a new experience for me, and I went, fresh faced, eager, and full of cold medicine. Unfortunately, my immune system’s timing was not the same as the event’s timing but I wasn’t going to miss this sucker. For those of you who don’t know, a Master Class is where you get to sit down with an expert, in this case THE expert, and learn new tips and tricks of the trade as well as the latest in color trends.
In our one hour session, Bravon and fellow attendee turned model Michelle showed us some of the latest trends in color, as well as his favorite tips and tricks for applying makeup. Yay! Since I’m really a re-beginner when it comes to makeup, but have become totally and completely obsessed, I jumped at the chance to attend.
Lucky for you, I took notes! And pictures!
So here goes…the products linked are the ones Bravon used in this demo.
1. Always prep your skin. After cleansing, you should always use SOME form of moisturizer, even if you have oily skin. The Bare Minerals Purely Nourishing Moisturizer is great for every day. Bravon suggests that you warm the moisturizer in your hand a bit before applying it, because body temperature product will absorb faster. Otherwise, you’ll be waiting for 10 minutes for it to soak in, and who has that time in the morning?
2. Using a facial primer will help your makeup stick, as well as helping it last all day; this is especially true of mineral makeups. Similarly to the moisturizer, use 2 pumps of the Prime
Time foundation primer, and warm it in your hand before applying. There are three formulas: Original, Oil Free and Brightening.
3. An eye primer is essential for making colors last, and stay put. BE makes several: Original, Brightening, and Brightening Pearl. Each one has a slightly different effect. You can apply the primer with your finger or a brush, but once you apply it, let it set for 2-3 minutes; that way, it becomes tacky but not sticky, and the minerals can adhere better.
4. For Foundation, always remember that less is more! First of all, make sure you match your color based on your undertones. Bravon used the Matte formula. Tap about 1/8 of a tsp in to the lid to start. Start small and build coverage because there is nothing worse than looking like a powder hound! Tools are very important. Bravon used the Heavenly Face Brush, which was originally designed for blush, but works fabulously for foundation! I already have this brush from an older kit, and I’ll start using it more now. Swirl your brush fairly aggressively, since you shouldn’t see any in the lid. All the minerals should be in the bristles. Tap off any excess and get to buffing! Mineral makeup really comes to life about 10 minutes after you apply it, since it works with your body temperature and natural oils in your skin, so don’t apply to much in one go.
5. Concealer – Bravon really likes Original Bisque, but you can use any Bisque that matches your skin tone, or Well Rested. I love well rested for red areas. There aren’t any rules to applying bisque. you can do it before your makeup or after your makeup, but use the Maximum Coverage concealer Brush (the little one). Apply it very gently, and don’t rub it in. Blend the edges in to the foundation. If you’re having one of those days, or if you need some extra TLC, a really cool trick is to take some PTFE and some Bisque and make a little paste. Apply this to your tough spots with your finger or a brush. Voila!
Press and Roll baby!
Another great trick for areas that need additional coverage, like freckles, or rosacea spots. but you don’t want to use a concealer on, is the Press and Roll technique. First, with the Maximum Coverage Face Brush (the big one), take ONE side of the brush and swirl it in your foundation. with the minerals side DOWN press in to your skin, and ROLL it side to side, applying the foundation. Blend out with the opposite, clean side of the brush. You can also use bisque with this trick. It simply applies a bit heavier application of coverage, which si great for discolored areas and dark circles.
6. Warm up your skin / contour – Because of the SPF in BE foundations is due to the Titanium Dioxide (which, by the way is how they make white paint **BRIGHT** white), you can sometimes look a wee bit chalky. This is normal, but you should use some color to warm yourself up, and maybe contour a bit. All Over Face Colors (AOFC) are great but can be scary. I have had a jar of warmth for a million years because I think I use too much and get freaked out. A TINY bit goes a LONG way! Just brush a touch over your forehead, down your nose, contour your cheeks.
7. If your eyes look a little pink after you apply your color, use the Heavenly Liner Blender Brush to apply Well Rested ( a yellow eye shadow / multi tasker) under your lower lash line to take the red out.
8. Eyes – One of the things I love about BE is that you can use ANY color ANY where. In this case, Bravon used Coffee Bean Liner Shadow as a deep crease defining color. Other great browns are Cashmere or faux mink. Use the double ended precision eye brush or another bullet tipped brush to apply the color precisely. Don’t worry if it looks really dark – by applying the darkest color first, you can blend it out more easily as you apply the contour and base shadow colors. Following the natural contour of the crease, apply Coffee Bean, and blend out with the Crease Defining Brush (aka the Windshield wiper brush).
Now, Bravon applied High Shine Glisten. he patted this on Michelle’s eyelid just below the crease color. This is a neutral golden undertone which softens the dark Coffee Bean.
Next, add a pop of color with Chameleon, a bright, green blue wonder, was swept over the eyelid up in to the crease.
Line the eyes with the liner of your choice starting from the center, using short feathery strokes outward. Stay as close to the lashline as you can, and then blend it out with the Heavenly Liner Blending Brush.
Highlight the browbone using Trophy Wife, and blend out and above the brows.
Add Snowflake over the entire lid to soften the look.
8. Don’t forget your brows! The Brow Minerals are special and adhere to the hairs of the brow instead of your skin. Follow the natural contour of your brow and fill in. blend it out, and seal in with brow gel.
9. Lips – Line the lips with Natural lipliner and fill in to blend. Add French Pastry lip color using a brush in the center of the lips. This seasons trend is to keep a heavy lipline, and fill in the center with a lighter color, so to be trendy you should keep the line. Add some 100% Natural Lipgloss in Chiffon for a shine.
10. Cheeks – using the Angled Face Brush, add blush (in this case Joyous Jennifer) to the top of the cheekbones. Use a pressing motion instead of blending, to highlight the cheeks. Blend up and high on the cheekbones with the full coverage conceal brush (big one). Apply Flawless Radiance to the apples of the cheeks and blending on to cheek bones to tone down the blush, and add a luminous glow.
11. Apply mascara by pushing up and out.
12. Finishing touches – apply mineral veil in a light patting motion to add that final touch to set the makeup.
ta da! I’m sorry to say I didn’t get the final “AFTER” shot of Michelle because I was too busy getting my own makeover, but – hopefully someone did and can share!
Editors Note: Join the Facebook Community to see more great pics of Bravon’s work
Next up: My Makeover with a Trophy Wife!